E36 M3 and the E30 non-m3 (e.g. This setup allows for E36/E46 fitment wheels (approximately et41 @ 7.5" width). The E30 and E36 M3 Bilstein Sport struts apparently have the same valving and they also have the same size spring perches; it all works beautifully. I've made two sets, one is for DD/Eibach Pro-Kit and one for coil-overs. This information should apply to most U.S. E30s made after 1985 (as they share the same rear trailing arm assembly specifications). Front Spindle? The new discs went on with the set screws and the calipers followed with pads. Think smart, think ahead. 1. This also maintains the original required wheel offset.

The brake lines came apart… messy but easy; I plugged them with plastic bolts or fuel hose with a screw in the end to stop the leaking. Home › BMW E36 on E30 Kit (5 lug Swap) $1,889.00. This information should apply to most U.S. E30s made after 1985 (as they share the same rear trailing arm assembly specifications). METHOD 1: E30 M3 - HUBS/BRAKES or COMPLETE TRAILING ARM ASSEMBLY. A lot of those brands mislead by using "OE" in their names. If (like me) you've sourced used arms, remember that MZ3 models came with control arms stamped 465/466, and they are exactly the same as E36 M3 control arms. Add to Cart • $1,889.00. Using some random pulling tools, hammers, and chisels I found in the shop, I managed to pull out the old trailing arm bushings from the 318ti trailing arms. Untouched ABS system. I couldn't imagine spending $170+ per side on control arms, so I looked for other possibilities... Parts Needed: The real painful part of the sub-frame work was marking and slotting the holes for the bolts to slide in for the camber and toe adjustment. Off came the wheels. You better have a very good relationship with the seller if buying used. Z3 (6-cylinder) rear hubs are much wider (stick out further) than E30 rear hubs (hence higher wheel offset requirement), but they fit with the stock E30 axle shaft lengths and wheel bearings! Color-match the wires and cap off extra wire. I took the discs off the E36 318ti rear assemblies and cleaned them up with some emery cloth and carburetor cleaner. Cons: smaller rear wheel bearing. More reading and work involved. This is a very important part of the project, as there's no point to have larger brakes and have worse stopping distance. In a BMW E30 doing the conversion to a hub of five lugs has several advantages. Some even resort to running higher offset wheels with spacers. Very often, you see people debate on what offset wheels they car run, and this debate is largely due to this very significant difference. CV Axles Notice camber plate and where shock is mounted. Geometrically, these TAs are exactly the same as Z3(I6) from previous section. I also replaced the rear shock mounts with another set of E30 cabriolet mounts since I had everything all apart; my old ones (which were already cabby mounts) had about 50,000 miles on them and you could see the wear and cracks. Vice of Z3 hubs: you have to do a lot of rear quarter work to fit ET20/23 wheels. Additionally, E30 Bilstein Sport strut inserts are valved the same as E36 M3 Bilstein Sport struts. That added to hubs also being 23.2mm wider, you've officially moved e30's ET20 perfect offset to ET63.2. I set my original inner holes (now for camber) lower but not at the bottom of the slotted area, so that I can add just a little more camber still, or remove a lot. e36/7 - e36 (3-series) and e37 (z3 chassis), z3(I6) - 6-cylinder Z3 (2.5L, 2.8L and 3.0L). I hit them with cleaner, followed by red caliper paint, and let them sit for a few days. To remove the old cable you have to pull out the rear piece of the E30 center console to get to the mounting hardware… it's really easy and self-explanatory. Cons:expensive and rare. This is a quick and easy bolt-on using nothing, but trailing arm assemblies. reinforced trailing arms. Also, my bearing caps must have been made at different times or locations because the hole at the top of the left side bearing cap was not the same size as the right side one. http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=132194 Learn more. As of right now, the front E36 sensor is spliced into the E30 harness. This also maintains the E30's original required wheel offset. This site is intended to be used as a reliable reference, and as such, information here is subject to updates and changes. This kit will easily complete your 5 lug conversion on your E30. There are a few ways of doing this and I will cover all of the ones I have attempted on several cars. I then disassembled, cleaned, greased, and reassembled the parking brake hardware on the 318ti arms. Method 2: COMPLETE E36 318ti TRAILING ARM ASSEMBLY. I had to grind the right hole wider and grind down a cheap socket to get the strut shaft's nut fully tightened with the impact gun. Unlike all other trailing arms, MZ3 got giant wheel bearings and M3 hubs and brakes. Because on e36's brake lines come from under the CV axle, these calipers have to be flipped over. The ultimate goal is to provide accurate information, as many part numbers as possible, and clear photos to chronicle the 5-lug swap. Read the whole guide before attempting this project. The new '97 control arms have the same diameter rear shaft as the E30 ones; they fit right into the E30 control arm bushings. The yellow E36 wire went to the brown E30 wire. This will upgrade the rotor size from the 258mm non-vented E30 rotors to 294mm vented rotors. Putting legends to rest with logic: Z3(I6) models are wider, than their 4-banger counterparts. METHOD 4: COMPLETE "MZ3" / "Z3M" / "M Roadster" / "M coupe" TRAILING ARM ASSEMBLY WITH AXLE SHAFTS. The sway-bars disconnected easily. I originally used standard E36 spindles and brakes, but caster just does not work out. The MZ3 (etc.) When "complete assemblies" or similar terms are used below, it is assumed all relevant items are included that would be known to a fairly competent, mechanically inclined individual; for example, "brakes" would include: calipers, caliper carriers, guide pins, brake pads, brake wear sensors, brake lines, nuts and bolts, anti-rattle springs, etc. Gave me versatility to switch between suspensions, whenever I feel like, because swaps don't take more than 30 minutes up front. Bolts right up. This happens, because counterfeiters use mold of a forged control arm to cast theirs. The discs (both the used rears and new fronts) were then painted with some high heat, low gloss black paint. 1. Why does this work? ), and hubs as one complete assembly will bolt right on to the E30 subframe. It's a partial graft or a full replacement, with the same results either way. Warning of wisdom: I have yet to receive/find a set of stock E36 struts that aren't blown. It shall be used the E30 strut mounts since the E36 studs are different and it would be necessary to do new holes. 318ti hub is 5mm shorter, than Z3 hub. ALSO, these TA's are reinforced with A-support beam, and extra support at shock mounting and bearing housing. Pros: ability to run stock-offset wheels 15" and up. or MZ331-12-2-228-465 (left) and 31-12-2-228-466 (right), These are standard E30/E36 control arms compared to proper E36 M3 control arms. You've been warned. Tools Needed: Grinding the slots into the sub-frame brackets was real torture and required many different tools from files to metal saws to a Dremel. You can easily spot the difference in the shape around outer ball-joint. Without lowering the vehicle, front camber measurements will likely be undesireable. Before I did any of this finalizing on the wiring, my ABS was starting to engage at very odd times and the light would soon come on (which means the system is deactivated due to errors) and I could then brake as hard as I wanted to. From this point on, if you use trailing arms that are non-e30, you will have to wire up e36 ABS sensors. Simply install the rear hub and discs from any 2.5L, 2.8L, or 3.0L (6 cylinder) Z3. There are some fundamental differences in trailing arms and hubs. As you can see, there's a difference in height of the rotor. I used a long nut and bolt and big washer setup to really pull them and the steel shafts into place. When working with the parking brake hardware, I was careful not to lose the little pin that holds the cable onto the hinge piece that pushes the shoes outward. The ultimate goal is to provide accurate information, as many part numbers as possible, and clear photos to chronicle the 5-lug swap. Simply bolt on the complete strut and brake assembly from top to bottom (from the strut mounts through to the brakes, etc.).

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